Le Nouveau Maqui
5064 Memorial Dr
Stone Mountain, Georgia 30083
(404) 784-2471
A review from three perspectives: Tom Ramsey, Tracey Brantley, and Calvin Burgamy (image gallery below-click on the “i” for image titles)
TOM:
On the road again again with Calvin Burgamy, exploring the depths of Memorial Drive cuisine. This time we took along Tracey Brantley to keep us in check, just as she has always done at our monthly PLAIN Meetings.
Calvin choose the location for lunch this trip, Le Nouveau Maquis, in the Citadel Square Shopping Plaza (think Office Depot). You would think the three highly intelligent characters like ourselves would have no trouble locating our destination, but alas, the location eluded us. There was an African grocery store sitting where our lunch spot should have been. Being the galant types we are, Calvin and I let Tracey check it out further. She came back with great news, she had located the restaurant at the back of the grocery store!
A few small tables and a bell to ring for service. We seated ourselves and out came Rosie, to serve us. She kindly explained some of the menu items to us, and we ordered!
I ordered the Joloff Rice with Turkey, the turkey was very tender dark meat from the leg, simmered in a thick tomato based sauce. It was spiced perfectly, but mild, not hot. The joloff rice was very tasty and quite filling. It reminded me of jambalaya, but with a richer blend of spices and it accompanied the turkey perfectly.
We finished off our meal with Plantains and Fufu. The plantains were pan fried to perfection with a touch of salt, giving you a wonderful blend of salt and the natural sugar of the plantain.
Rosie explained that Fufu was a mashed yam, from Ghana, folded into a log shape, that could be dipped in one of their savory sauces. When Calvin queried why it was white, and not yellow or orange, Rosie giggled and emphasized that it was a Ghana Yam, very different from what we locals are accustomed to seeing. We happened to spot some Ghana Yams in the grocery store on the way out, they are about the size of a football. It reminded one of a very smooth, mashed potato with a little extra starch for texture as shaping.
Plenty of free parking. Service was good, and the food came out as each dish was ready. The water was cold and bottled by Nestle. Nothing available for dessert. Quite a few folks were ordering food for take out while we were having lunch. The seating area was clean and neat and staff was helpful and courteous. The food was quite good. Overall, I would give it a neutral 2.5-3 on the meh scale ☺
TRACEY:
It’s hard to live up to or add much to Tom’s thorough and eloquent review of Le Nouveau Maquis, but here goes. First off, I was very pleased to tag along on their bro’ date. Upon entering, you will find the restaurant at the back of the grocery store in a narrow, approximately 10 by 20-foot space. Seating was set up for tables of two, which I guess could be joined. But don’t expect to bring a large group here for a sit down lunch.
I ordered the peanut soup with lamb and chicken. I do not like lamb, but when I asked, I got the impression lamb was already in there and I could add other meat. Other meat options to add were goat, oxtail, tripe, beef, and maybe turkey. I added the chicken.
As a lover of peanut butter, let me say that this was excellent. I would have been happy with just the sauce over the white rice, which was perfectly cooked with a hint of butter. I would describe it as more of a stew than a soup. All the items arrived at different times, which was a little confusing, but we adapted.
We shared Tom’s plantains, which were just a hint of savory and salt. All in all, a unique and very pleasant meal. I would, however, save the 5 bucks and not order the FuFu again. Drinks are from the grocery store and included some tropical juices and soft drinks (no diet coke). Overall, I would give this a 2.75 on the meh scale. Rosie was very nice and friendly and my two lunch companions were very pleasant and entertaining
CALVIN:
Le Nouveau Maqui, a small West African restaurant tucked inside a small African grocery store which is tucked in a small strip shopping center two doors down from Office Depot in Citadel Square. As best as I can discern Le Nouveau Maquis translates to “the new resistance”. If you know differently let me know. Like a lot of the strip malls along Memorial the parking lot is worn and pitted and not very inviting. I highly recommend that owners of these properties start with sprucing up the parking lots. Can I get an amen?
But enough about the parking lot. Lets get on with our culinary adventure to West Africa. The caveat is we’ve never been to west Africa and we don’t really know what to expect except what we’ve seen on the world wide interwebs. What we do have is a willingness to go there and check it out. So…
In the back of the grocery store is the 6 or eight table restaurant. We didn’t realize when we got there and settled in but there is a couple of bells by the kitchen door that customers ring to let the staff (Rosie) know you are there. Another customer took pity on us and rang it and our waitress Rosie sprang into action and brought our menus.
One of the items I wanted to try was the Jollof rice. I did a little research and watched an interesting NY Times video on how to make Jollof Rice with Yewande Komolafe from Nigeria (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ul5WBj1m_Xg). Wonderful video and I was ready to try the dish. You may also find her article on the top 10 Nigerian dishes packed with info if you are wanting to explore other African restaurants on Memorial Dr.
I ordered the Jollof rice with beef in a tomato sauce. The beef was a bit tough and hard to cut especially since the only utensils we had were a spoon and a fork so I proceeded forthwith and tore the beef apart with the spoon. I thought the rice and tomato sauce was a bit lackluster until I added an extra dose of the side chili sauce. The chili sauce is tasty, zesty, and spicy!
My mind and eye soon wandered to thoughts of Tracey’s peanut butter soup with chicken and lamb. You have to admit peanut butter soup is an interesting meal yes? I cadged a taste of the soup and Yum. I think it was the best dish and recommend it above the Jollof rice with beef.
Also we ordered plantains and FuFu. I would recommend the tasty fried plantains and would urge an arched eybrow on the FuFu – pounded Ghana Yam and doughy textured with the taste of mild potato. I urge the arched eyebrow not that FuFu is bad but visually it is a bit lumpy and is more of a vehicle to be dipped in a sauce or gravy. See Tom’s description of FuFu somewhere in this review. I would ditto Tom and Tracey’s rating and give the Le Nouveau Maquia 2.75 on the meh scale. Go there and check it out. Let us know what you think.